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May 16, 2008

New bakery in St. Pete Beach

Just got this e-mail from reader Karen Kwapil. It opened a couple months ago but I haven't yet checked it out.

I have rarely been as excited about a new find as I was when I walked into the Schwestern Olde World Bakery at 595 Corey Avenue in St. Pete Beach (727/223-7320) last week!

The first thing to hit me was the wonderful smells of fresh bakery!  Then the sights...cherry strudel, chocolate eclairs, carrot cake, lemon meringue pie, brownies, assorted donuts, cookies, and breads!  It was an unbelievable sight!  But the best thing of all was the taste!

The first item I brought home to try was the cherry strudel.  Oh my!  The crust melted in my mouth, and the cherry filling was perfect. Days later I bought another cherry strudel and served it to guests. They too thought it was unbelievable! I later had chocolate eclairs, several different cookies, some pastries, hamburger buns, and different breads. I can truly say that each item is unbelievably wonderful!   

In speaking with the bakers--sisters (thus the name Schwestern, sisters in German), I learned of their dream to open an old-fashioned neighborhood bakery just like in days gone by. After reading the Weekend section this week, I thought what a great story this bakery would be for your paper!   

Entrepreneurship is such an iffy thing in this troubled economy, and I applaud these sisters for putting their money and efforts into such a wonderful endeavor. I hope and pray it is here for many people to enjoy for a long time.

New food websites

The restaurant search site Urbanspoon has recently started covering Tampa Bay. It pulls together restaurant reviews from the newspaper critics such as the St. Petersburg Times, Tampa Bay Metro, Tampa Tribune, etc., as well as reviews from local food bloggers (Matt at FloridaFoodHound, Urban Eater, etc). Seems like a fairly good resource--as an example, check out this page.

Another newcomer is InYourKitchen.com, the first of its kind all-video cooking-and-lifestyle website. The idea is that it taps top chefs and food and wine authorities for their signature recipes, cooking tips and techniques, offering home cooks easy-to-follow video recipes. Most of the videos are under six minutes and follow recipes step-by-step in clear, up-close shots. They can be paused and restarted at any point for clarity. Hosted by Diane Stopford, the site is aimed at what they're calling the "anti-apron generation," those cooks who want to forgo the fussiness and formality of traditional cooking.

Taking a 'cue

Shanes_logo

Pockets light on coin? Here's a teeny treat: On Saturday Shane's Rib Shacks across the country will celebrate the kickoff to the summer barbecue season. The first 100 customers at each Shane's will receive a free half-rack of baby back ribs and a large Coca-Cola Zero. Free coffee for early risers.

  • 3838 West Neptune St., Tampa
  • 17501 Preserve Walk Lane, New Tampa
  • 16540 Pointe Village Drive, Lutz

May 15, 2008

Where's the ketchup, and other trends

Got this the other day from my devoted reader Dizzy: "I've got a favor to ask. Can you help me out with something? I am wondering why restaurants seem to be shying away from serving ketchup on their burgers. When I go out to a chain restaurant, one along the lines of a Chili's or Outback, I order a lot of burgers and they seem to come with onions (which I take off), tomatoes, lettuce, mustard and sometimes mayo. But never ketchup. It seems like that marks a change - they used to come standard with ketchup, right? My dad (also a big burger guy) is also wondering about this as well. I told him that I would write you, the bestest foodie on the planet, and have you find out what's happened to the ketchup on our burgers? Please, do tell. P.S. y.b.d.n.k.i.t.g.a.i.i."
Not sure about that whole P.S. part, but now that he mentions it, ketchup has been MIA, especially in upscale burgers, which seem to have adopted a ketchup-it-yourself approach. Not sure what it means. Even that fancy chipotle ketchup is an elective.Spoon
Another mysterious disappearance is that of the spoon. Not as in, "the fork ran away with." The fork is right there where you expect it, as is the knife. Just no spoon. Zagat Buzz tried to get to the bottom of it: "We wondered if there was something more to the spoonless trend. And it turns out there is, according to Dr. Brian Wansink, the director of Cornell's Food and Brand Lab who's currently on leave to run the Center for Nutrition Policy and Promotion, in Washington, DC.

Wansink said that his team at Cornell learned that "while place settings don't seem to have much of an effect on the way people order it definitely changes how people perceive a restaurant." They conducted a study of business diners "who don't blink at spending $30 on an entree," in which they asked participants to look at dozens of different settings and rate them by features like how expensive that restaurant would be. 'Settings without spoons were seen as more 'European' and were rated as slightly more elegant than most settings that had spoons,' Wansink said."

One more trend, one I could do without, is the ascendance of the square plate. Plain white, big lip, impossible to balance your knife on. There are the long rectangular white plates on which a trio of something comes (tartares, creme brulees, etc.), but the square white plate might contain anything. Vaguely Asian-feeling, they're meant to be hip and possibly space-saving on a small table, most prevalent in a small-plate restaurant.

May 14, 2008

Where there's Smoke..there's new barbecue

I've been driving down Platt Street in Tampa watching a gorgeous restaurant space take shape for some months. A few weeks ago someone put up a hand-lettered sign that said something vague about barbecue. Yesterday the official sign went up. Welcome Smoke Barbecue & Grill, to open its doors Monday, May 19 at 901 Platt Street; (813) 254-7070.

I spent a little time on the phone with one of the owners, Rick Knapik, a former chef at Ceviche in Tampa. Apparently, the new barbecue joint is another project from uber-restaurateur Gordon Davis, along with third partner Tony Bruno (formerly at St. Bart's). Davis has wanted to do a barbecue place for many years, it seems--this one in what Rick calls a "New World barbecue" idiom. They'll be doing traditional dry-rubbed pork shoulder, brisket, spareribs and beef ribs, a Hawaiian rotisserie chicken, skewers of shrimp and scallops, other skewers of veggies. Whole meal prices will hover between $15 and $21, with side dishes that include sweet potato fries, Asian-inflected cole slaw and sauteed greens. A liquor license is still pending, but the aim is just beer and wine.

The space itself is just lovely, in what looks like an old converted auto body shop. Gas lamps and rustic brick give it a chic retro feel. Can't wait to check it out.

May 13, 2008

Turning tables in Tampa Bay

Cid_012901c8b502e06582109a01a8c0c_2I bid a fond farewell to Italian dessert spot La Casa Dolce Café on South Howard in Tampa, one of the city’s best gelaterias. Sadly, parking was apparently a major problem, as was a lack of kids (notorious ice cream eaters) in the neighborhood. They’re looking for another space, but will ditch the wine and beer and focus strictly on gelato, desserts and coffee. The vacated space has been taken over by the owners of MacDinton’s Irish Pub and Restaurant across the street.

Bamboo seems to be a new buzzword of sorts. This weekend marks the opening of Twisted Bamboo in Bay Arbor Place at 3687 Tampa Road in Oldsmar. The concept is all the familiar tropical drinks (plus the increasingly ubiquitous mojito and martini menu) paired with a menu of fun pan-Asian dishes in a lively atmosphere. While over in Tampa, Bamboozle is packing them in downtown at 516 N. Tampa St. Quick and healthy Vietnamese fusion has charmed office workers at lunch (breakfast and dinner are possibly on the horizon), with classic pho and traditional noodle salads, followed up by the oh-so-sweet Vietnamese coffee lush with sweetened condensed milk.

Another grand opening this weekend takes place Saturday starting at 7 p.m. at the new Partners Sports Café, located at 2924 5th Avenue N. in historic Kenwood. According to owners Alain and Emerson Grainger (formerly of Velvet Underground on 4th), the menu is overseen by Wolfgang Puck alum and former chef at Race Rock in Orlando, Lisa Robinson. Gourmet sandwiches and homey dishes like lasagna make up the menu, with a dance area, game room and regular live music enlivening the dining room. For more information, call (727) 321-0088.

A big congratulations are in order for Jose Luis Pawelek, chef/owner of Elements Global CuisineJoseasdalicontestjpg_013_2  Restaurant in Gulfport. He won the Salvador Dali Look Alike Contest held on Saturday, May 10 at St. Petersburg's Dali Museum. In celebration of the artist's 104th birthday, dozens of entrants sent in a video depicting their interpretation of either Dali or one of the artist's surrealistic works. While the video was judged by famed filmmaker John Waters, the in-person contest was judged by local celebrity and publisher of Citilife Magazine, Sterling Powell. "I chose Jose Luis as the winner since he stayed in character during his video as well as throughout the evening." Judge for yourself: 

May 12, 2008

Does this seem excessive or is it just me?

HardeesproductshotToday Hardee's unveils a new product. It's a new hamburger in which, as the p.r. person told me, "meat is a condiment." At first I thought, what, like, the burger patty is really teeny and all the veggies take centerstage? Nope. It's a Black Angus burger topped with horseradish sauce, grilled onions, Swiss cheese and..wait for it...prime rib. It's meat on which a condiment is extra meat. I suppose it's not so different from a bacon-topped burger, but somehow the idea of sliced prime rib taking the place of, say, lettuce seems excessive to me. Is this a tree Hardee's should be barking up?

The Prime Rib Thickburger, as it's called, will sell for $4.49; a small combo (includes a small fry and drink) $6.49; medium combo $7.08; large combo $7.48. Only one way to find out if their entry into the "premium burger" market is a keeper. What's next, a slab of foie gras?

May 08, 2008

In honor of my crepe story today

Maybe it's a sickness, but I seem to remember all scenes in movies that have to do with food. One of my more favorites in recent years was in the fine film, Talladega Nights. The scene takes place between Jean Girard and Ricky Bobby. It is excerpted below if you don't feel like watching the YouTube segment (it's got some naughty bits).

Jean Girard: [has Ricky in an arm lock] I will let you go, Ricky. But first, I want you to say...”I... love... crepes."

Cal Naughton, Jr.: Don't you say it, Ricky. These colors don't run.

Ricky Bobby: I'm not gonna say it.

***

Cal Naughton, Jr.: You know, just to put this in there, I had a whole mess of crepes this morning. They're just like pancakes, maybe even better.

Ricky Bobby: Wait, are they the really thin pancakes?

Cal Naughton, Jr.: Yeah. Jean Girard: Yes they are. They are the really thin pancakes. It's just a French word for them.

Ricky Bobby: Oh, my god, I love those.

Cal Naughton, Jr.: Put any syrups you want on them. I'm just saying, think about it.

Ricky Bobby: They come with cheese sometimes?

Jean Girard: Yes, of course, a fromage-crepe.

Ricky Bobby: Well, why didn't someone yell that right-right away?

May 07, 2008

A new neighbor with heart

Craig Chapman, former corporate chef for Bonefish Grill and Hops Restaurant and Brewery, is up and running with his big restaurant plans for downtown St. Petersburg. First to open its doors is Grillside Central at the site of the defunct Tedesco's at 437 Central Avenue. To celebrate the launch, Chapman has decided to donate all proceeds from Thursday's lunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., to the Abilities Foundation.

Says Frank DeLucia, foundation president and chief executive, "Craig Chapman is an accomplished chef with a lot of head room who could have selected any of 2,400 nonprofits in the Tampa Bay area, yet he chose to put his faith in, and financial muscle, behind us. It's very humbling and rewarding, and quite a tribute to Abilities' success in placing people with disabilities in mainstream jobs and affordable housing."

Technically, aren't we supposed to bring the new neighbor a Bundt cake or something? The least we can do is check out the new place and have lunch for a good cause.

May 01, 2008

Dining debuts

Despite a pervasive sense of economic doom and gloom, doors are opening all over the Tampa Bay area.

Remember a while ago when I ranted about Chateau Soho in Tampa, which was formerly Chateau France and 42nd Street? Well, it closed up and in its place Manny's Bistro has opened up shop. Haven't been yet so I can't say much about it, except reader Nick Vega says, "the new owner (formerly of Tampa Club) has remodeled it into a cozy, but elegant bistro. His New Orleans trained chef, Tony Savage, prepares exquisite meals with unique presentations. I, along with many of my friends and associates, have dined there frequently. We attend their generous happy hour with complimentary appetizers every Friday and Saturday. This establishment is truly one of SoHo's best kept secrets." Secret's out.

Many months in the making, Hammerhead's Island Grill is finally doing business at the site of the defunct Julian's at the Heritage (256 Second Ave. N, St. Petersburg). The concept is seafood-heavy with a big raw bar. Hours are 4-10 p.m. Tues. to Thurs., 4-11 p.m. Fri., noon-11 p.m. Sat. and noon to 10 p.m. Sun. For more information, call (727) 823-1848.

Another Tampa SoHo oldtimer, Mangroves, has opened a second location. Mangroves Northdale
(3805 Northdale Blvd., Tampa, 813/968-3300) serves a similar array of sophisticated New American cuisine in a glamorous new space with a swanky lounge. Northdale increasingly boasts some of South Tampa's restaurant bounty since the arrival of Mariposa Mexican Grill and Grille One Sixteen. Let's hope Mangroves is yet another Northdale knockout.

Up in Crystal River, Vintage on 5th is making waves. Owned by Rodney and Jennifer Carr, who also own the much-lauded Crystal River Wine & Cheese Company, this new effort was launched in January in a rehabbed 1940s church. The culinary focus is loosely Southern, with shrimp and grits their hottest seller. As the name suggests, wine is also taken seriously, with a rotating list of 55 offered by the bottle and 22 by the glass. Vintage on 5th is open for dinner Monday to Saturday, and is located at 114 NE 5th St., Crystal River, 352/794-0004.

Continue reading "Dining debuts" »

About This Blog

"He who distinguishes the true savor of his food can never be a glutton; he who does not cannot be otherwise."
- Henry David Thoreau.

"I eat with gusto. Damn, you bet!"
- Jonathan Richman.

Laura Reiley is the food critic for the St. Petersburg Times. She is not a glutton but she eats with gusto.

Have a restaurant suggestion? E-mail Laura Reiley: lreiley@sptimes.com

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