Bern's loses top chef
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As the table turns | Main | Easy being green? »

November 05, 2007

Bern's loses top chef

Pierola

Jeannie Pierola, the executive chef at both Bern's and a partner/executive chef at SideBerns, has left the restaurants.

Apparently, she and David Laxer, son of the late founder, had a parting of the ways over the direction of the next phase of Bern's expansion -- a  planned hotel across the street from Bern's. The exact cause of the breakup remains a mystery because Laxer isn't talking (only through his spokesperson) and Pierola wouldn't say.

Both said there was  no acrimony. "We had different visions and faced up to the fact," Pierola said.

The next chef or chefs of the restaurants will come from the staff Pierola trained and she says the food will be the as good "and probably better,'' as talented chefs get a chance to cook on their own.

Pierola became the first professional chef nine years ago at the legendary steakhouse, where Bern Laxer had directed all the cooking for generations She says she will be doing something in Tampa although she doesn't know exactly what at this point.

This news comes on the heels of the female chef at Redwoods in St. Petersburg, Domenica Macchia, leaving that restaurant and preparing to open her own place in St. Petersburg.

-- Story by Chris Sherman; 2003 photo by Michael Rondou | Times

Comments

The arrogance of the wait staff at Burns is disgusting, as is the service. Open up a new restaurant that treats people well, maybe I'll eat there.

It is heartening to see that high profile people in the restaurant industry can disagree without dragging each other into the mud. I applaud both sides for thier integrity, and wish them both well. I will continue dining at Bern's and I will support Ms. Peirola in whatever new venue she chooses. Showing class wins every time.

HEY TOM, IF YOU ARE GOING TO REFER TO BERN'S AT LEAST KNOW HOW TO SPELL IT !
SORRY TO HEAR THE NEWS, BUT I'M QUITE SURE BOTH WILL PROSPER

I agree with you Barry. Tom lacked the class to address the story, without attacking one side, or the other.

Why, exactly, is this front page news on this website? Are we going to have stories about fry cooks at McDonald's disgruntled because someone decided to take away the tank full of plastic balls at Playland?

I know she's more than a fry cook, but the point remains. Who really cares?

Eeeeesh.

You obviously care enough to have clicked on the story and read it. If you don't want to keep seeing stories like this, stop clicking on them. The more clicks the stories get, the more often the paper will think this is what people want to read.

Vernon, she's the executive chef at the most renown restaurant in the area. Tampa doesn't have too many world class chef's, when one steps down it is big news.

I have given her the benefit of doubt and eaten at Sideberns numerous times and quite frankly never enjoyed a meal other than the Dim Sum. And the Dim Sum was not really originally her idea. The original founder/owner, Bern Laxer - a true visionary, had bought thousands of dim sum platters. When jeannie got involved with the restaurant, she found the dim sum platters and thought to use them as the foundation of the restaurant. OK, but if you really want dim sum, you have to go to TC Choys on South Howard to get authentic offerings not just pretty food for pretty people. Any other meal at SideBerns was a hodgepodge mixture of odd or exotic flavors that never worked for me of those i brought to the place. Or at least what I thought was my pretty decent palette (my father is a Swiss-born & trained chef & owned restaurants in the US and I was scheduled to attend a cooking school in Lausanne, Switzerland), just does not get what she is trying to create.

And the attempt to bring those exotic foods to Bern's just is not working - the total lack of enthusiasm by the wait staff when asked about the "kitchen within a kitchen" items just typically miss the mark of what is a generally well executed steakhouse. I also think the changes to the desserts she orchestrated must be generating lackluster results. I've had almost all of them and avoided the ones the wait staff steered me away from.

The interesting thing is I can either commend her for leaving or be upset at David for not admitting he fired her.

Her - she showed character for taking a stance and leaving when faced with such strong diffrences in the creative direction of the restaurant & hotel being developed -you could argue, if she had been smart & played "the game", the plans going on could have led her to a comfortable retirement.

Jeannie, take a well deserved vacation and good luck on your next venture.

jeannie is dead, Long Live Bern's & the Chateaubriand tips or the burger at the bar!!

My boss has taken my co-workers and I to Bern's for the past 20 years and every year has been WONDERFUL ! We've had the choice of going to other number #1 restaurants in the area, but Bern's has always won out ! Not only is the food and wine EXCELLENT, but the entire dining atmosphere is a memorable and fun experience.

The real story here is that she remained for 9 years. Jeannie is a talented chef who expanded the culinary scene here in Tampa. With her following it is a surprise that she did not venture out to establish her own restaurant. What is disappointing is that they will promote from within without benefit of interviewing outside the area. If Side Bern’s is going to remain a leader in this area, it would be well served by interviewing young, well traveled chef’s to infuse additional menu ideas.

Also, a great addition to the story would be the “de-evolution” of Bern’s in general. Bern’s remains a “destination” restaurant, but the quality of the food has diminished, in particular the quality of the beef. Folks still go to Bern’s based on what it was, not what it is. Bern’s steaks pale in comparison to some of the country’s newer steak houses (i.e. Cut, The Strip House) and several local restaurants. What may help them restore their culinary image is if in fact they do open the Epicurean Hotel. The bar will need to be raised if they want to grow and maintain this particular clientele. These customers will have high expectations and will not support this venture unless the ambience AND the food is spectacular.

Hello Hank! Jeannie has run her own establishments in the past, from Tia Lenas on Bradenton Beach to Cool Beans in Tampa all have passed. Why???

The chef is one thing---all that stuff you guys wrote might be true--but David Laxer bears the major responsibility for the deterioration of Berns. Condo hotels work in cities with a high volume of business travelers (NYC, Chicago; also Las Vegas and Orlando because of their huge convention business) but I'm highly skeptical about it succeeding in Tampa. It's nothing Bern would have attempted. His priority would have been to maintain the quality of food and service.

That monstrous parking garage is all you might see for a while anyway as the economy goes into the tank.

There is no mystery to me why Jeannie is gone. She leaves bankrupt restaurants in her wake....Cool Beans...Boca...and
now even the deep pockets of Bern's could not support her
contrived menu approach. Bottom line....she is a fraud, and
David Laxer finally got sick of it. Good for him. I am sure she will find another sucker with millions to lose.

Finally one of the big three has gone on her merry way.
Jeannie Pierola is no longer barking orders at Bern's. Maybe
they will now get an inspired chef. I only hope that the remaining two meet the same fate. BT (the i,ch, are silent)
continues to offer up pre-frozen fare as gourmet, and superficial attitude, while maryanne of Mise en Place has continued to offer the same tired cuisine she did 20 years ago. When will Tampa ever get a truly inspired chef, focused on genuine quality and hospitality...instead of self promotion?

LAst night Jan 04, 2008 we ate at Sideberns for the first time. While the service was good - the staff seemed to lack in the art of describing the dishes. Nothing was tantalizing by description.

The menu was confusing - the steak was ok - the asparagus was perfect. The dessert we thought we ordered sounded interesting. When it arrived - it was more of a tapas tasting of desserts. Since our party of 4 decided to share the dessert - it would have been well advised if the waiter explained that we should order 2 since the tastings were petite.

Our bill was 270.00 with tip included and regret that we left hungry.

As for Jeannie - I was disappointed that she was not the executive chef. That being said - I can't wait to find out where she emerges. I still miss some of the lovely dishes that were on the Cool Beans and Boca menu's. (I have been craving the Poblano mashed potatoes... and the beef - but cannot remember the name of that dish). Enjoyed Boca- but Cool Beans menu was just that - COOL!

All the best to you Jeannie!

Are you surprised you left the place hungry?

For almost $70 a person, they'd better be rolling me out in a dump truck.

But that's part of the yuppie life. Spend all that money, get food in small portions that's colorful, has all sorts of obscure spices, but ends up tasting only as good as something you'd get at Outback for 30% of the price. And you wind up going to ColdStone afterwards because you're not full.

I have a couple of restaurants that Jeannie Pierola might be interested in looking at, I am attempting to reach her by phone or email If you can help me by providing me her cell phone number or her snail address, I will be most grateful.

Mr. Seimetz, I don't have that information. Sorry.

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Laura Reiley is the food critic for the St. Petersburg Times. She is not a glutton but she eats with gusto.

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