Sure, it was Thanksgiving, which I spent eating gunk with family. But much more importantly, I went to three smallish, independently owned, delicious, worthy-of-review new places. I'd been feeling a little low--a bunch of recent forays yielded nothing worth reviewing other than big, corporately owned chains and hotel restaurants. A food critic loves the thrill of the chase, ferreting out the uncelebrated underdogs.
Here's what's on the horizon for reviews:
Went to Pierogi Grill. It's oxymoronic, yes (what would a grilled pierogi even look like?), but really good. Jeff Houck at the Tampa Tribune did a great story on it, so it's not completely unsung. Still. If you eat a whole plate of pierogis you lapse into a narcoleptic torpor, but I'd recommend the spinach and meat, the cheese, the potato (nice dilly flavor), the one with cheddar, and a combo bite of the sweet dessert blueberry one with the sweet cheese one. Also, there's delicious borscht that looks like pink Easter egg dye floating some little meat dumplings. Stuffed cabbage is mild-mannered but sturdy. The soundtrack was extremely heavy on Bryan Adams. Why? One of life's little mysteries. 1535 Gulf to Bay Blvd., Clearwater, (727) 216-3055
Next stop, Zen Bistro Grill and Sushi Bar in Westchase. Totally lovely hipster-minimalist interior with neat Plexiglas floor tile revealing little sand-and-stone Zen gardens, and floppy living bamboo in towering glass planters. The food is accessible pan-Asian, heavy on the Japanese and Vietnamese flavors. Family friendly, nice little martini list. 9620 W. Linebaugh Ave., Westchase Town Center, (813) 792-8665
Then my husband talked me into going to a new Greek place called Acropolis in New Tampa, at the site of the defunct and deeply frightening Brickyard Restaurant. The lingering memory of Brickyard had made me gun shy--totally unwarranted. It's owned by the brother of the guy who owns the restaurant of the same name in Ybor City. There's live music, breaking plates, the grapevine dance snaking around the restaurant and people yelling "opa" at intervals. But that's not why you should go. The food is generous, flavorful, fresh-tasting and very inexpensive. I'm reviewing it quick before the portion sizes get adjusted downward. 14947 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa, (813) 242-4545 (that's the Ybor phone #--the new one doesn't seem to be registered with directory assistance yet).
Any other places I should check out?
Looking through my comments this morning, I found this. It links back to this post:
Dear Critics in Arms,
I was so sorry to read all of the negative responses to my performance as the "food critic" on the TV series "Kitchen Nightmares."
As many of you have pointed out, no real food critic would go on national television to review a restaurant.
As a new editor at Dan's Papers, I was sent, along with the rest of the Editorial staff, to have fun, put on a show and get a humorous story for the paper that week.
Once the cameras were rolling, my job as an actress was to deliver my performance exactly as the producers and director instructed.
The resulting "review" and the story by my colleague about our experience on "Kitchen Nightmares" was meant to give our readers a taste of what it is like to be on reality TV.
My review of the food, however, was written in the spirit of my character on the show, as the producers of "Kitchen Nightmares" had requested it for use on the program.
I apologize if I have become the unlikely poster girl for food criticism; that certainly was not my intent when I agreed to join the cast of the show. Although I am an aspiring environmental and scientific journalist, I am not a food critic and have never written a serious, blind review of any restaurant.
As anyone in the entertainment business will tell you, "reality" TV is simply an exercise in improvisational acting. The "reality" aspect is imparted by using unknown actors and laymen and by creatively editing many hours of footage to look like a seamless whole.