Where there's Smoke..there's new barbecue
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Turning tables in Tampa Bay | Main | Where's the ketchup, and other trends »

May 14, 2008

Where there's Smoke..there's new barbecue

I've been driving down Platt Street in Tampa watching a gorgeous restaurant space take shape for some months. A few weeks ago someone put up a hand-lettered sign that said something vague about barbecue. Yesterday the official sign went up. Welcome Smoke Barbecue & Grill, to open its doors Monday, May 19 at 901 Platt Street; (813) 254-7070.

I spent a little time on the phone with one of the owners, Rick Knapik, a former chef at Ceviche in Tampa. Apparently, the new barbecue joint is another project from uber-restaurateur Gordon Davis, along with third partner Tony Bruno (formerly at St. Bart's). Davis has wanted to do a barbecue place for many years, it seems--this one in what Rick calls a "New World barbecue" idiom. They'll be doing traditional dry-rubbed pork shoulder, brisket, spareribs and beef ribs, a Hawaiian rotisserie chicken, skewers of shrimp and scallops, other skewers of veggies. Whole meal prices will hover between $15 and $21, with side dishes that include sweet potato fries, Asian-inflected cole slaw and sauteed greens. A liquor license is still pending, but the aim is just beer and wine.

The space itself is just lovely, in what looks like an old converted auto body shop. Gas lamps and rustic brick give it a chic retro feel. Can't wait to check it out.

Comments

Been watching the renovation of this used-to-be rundown car detailing or repair garage into what appears in passing to be an attractive new space. Good parking available in a lot on the side of the building. Hope the fare is as promising. Thanks for being the ultimate sleuth, Mouth.

I tried Smoke with some friends yesterday. We decided to just get a bunch of combination plates and a few skewers so that we could taste everything. I'll start with the good. The meats were absolutely amazing. The montreal beef was one of the best beef dishes I have ever had. The Cajun skewer was very well seasoned and was also fantastic. In rating the meats we decided that we liked the Montreal Beef, Sausage, Chicken, Ribs, Brisket, Pork Shoulder and Duck in that order. The sauces, glazes, and marinades on the meats were amzing and the food had great flavor.

We had the Black and Tan Onion rings as an App. and they were excellent as well. The only things that were just ok were the sides. I liked the Potato Salad and Cole slaw but neither was exceptional. The Mac and cheese was a strong effort, but certainly not the best I've ever had. I did not care for the baked beans at all. They wer enot bad, just did not taste the way I expected them too. Think less sweet Bush's style and more along th elines of a smoke black eyed peas flavor profile. They were not bad at all, I just felt they should have some cornbread or something to go with them. French Fries were very good as well.

Greg, thanks so much for the review. My buddy Smedley also checked it out and had a good experience, so I'm giving it one more week, then going hog-snake on the 'cue. I love that stuff (although now that I'm perfecting my Green Egg techniques at home, decent homegrown 'cue is within reach).

Greg, when you were at Smoke, had they been granted their liquor license as yet?

Food is good, so is the waitstaff...we were eating here 2 to 3 nights a week since it opened. However,if you walk in and see the manager with the gray beard... the best suggestion I can give would be to turn around and walk out. He is very high strung and rude. The waitstaff is amazing, yet he treats them poorly. He makes it his personal effort to give you an unpleasant dining experience. He moved us from our table twice and talked to us like he didn't want our business. The waiter apologized profusely...but we probably won't go back. Prices are good, but when you go out to dinner you want to enjoy the experience not be treated like its an inconvenience to have your business. It's almost like the place is doing so good that the owner is on a high horse.

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About This Blog

"He who distinguishes the true savor of his food can never be a glutton; he who does not cannot be otherwise."
- Henry David Thoreau.

"I eat with gusto. Damn, you bet!"
- Jonathan Richman.

Laura Reiley is the food critic for the St. Petersburg Times. She is not a glutton but she eats with gusto.

Have a restaurant suggestion? E-mail Laura Reiley: lreiley@sptimes.com

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