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« June 2008 | Main | August 2008 »

July 31, 2008

Are you a Tampa Bay family trying to find affordable places to dine?

I'm working on a follow-up story about Bennigan's bankruptcy announcement on Tuesday and what this might mean for other chains or independent restaurants in this segment of the market.

I'd like to talk to a Tampa Bay family that has changed its dining-out habits because of financial concerns in the past eight months. Have you gone from dining regularly at your favorite casual chain, to frequenting "fast-casual" or fast food restaurants? Have you decided to eat at home more? Are you paying closer attention to special offers, coupons or other deals?

Shoot me an e-mail at lreiley@sptimes.com with your contact information so I can call you today.

July 30, 2008

For the "glass is half full" kind of person

Starting yesterday and lasting through August 8, The Economist will be hosting an online, Oxford-style debate on whether or not rising food prices can have an upside for humanity.

The proposition is: "There is an upside for humanity in the rise of food prices." Although we can never overlook the grave situation posed by rising food prices, we hope to dissect the issue and view it from fresh perspectives to see if it can have a positive impact. For example, do rising food prices benefit farmers? Can they lead to development of safe, genetically modified foods which in turn can help developing nations with marginal farmlands become self-sustainable? And are the shorter-term pains of creating biofuels worth the longer-term gains of reduced transportation costs? 

Moderator John Parker feels that “there is always some sort of upside. The question for the audience is how big, and whether it is big enough to be meaningful.”

What do you think? Post your comments here or on The Economist's site. If they like your argument, moderator John Parker may highlight it an upcoming moderator statement.

Continue reading "For the "glass is half full" kind of person" »

July 29, 2008

Bennigan's, Steak & Ale restaurants close

Bennigans_4

Colleague Mark Albright has just reported that national restaurant chains Bennigan's and Steak & Ale have closed their doors and filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy protection, closing more than 300 locations and laying off thousands of employees. It is one of the largest restaurant bankruptcy filings in U.S. history.

Here in the Tampa Bay area, this is a heavy hit, with 10 locations in the area, nine of which have closed. Only the Channelside location (615 Channelside Drive, Tampa), a franchise, remains open at this time. Closures include four Bennigan's locations in Tampa (18001 Highwoods Preserve Parkway, 2206 E Fowler Ave., 2520 N Dale Mabry Highway and 9206 Anderson Road), one in Brandon (2210 W Brandon Blvd.), one in Clearwater (2640 Gulf to Bay Blvd.), two in St. Petersburg (9900 Fourth St. N, 2190 Tyrone Blvd. N) and one in St. Pete Beach (4625 Gulf Blvd.). As per Steak & Ale locations, it looks as though there was a single location in the area (204 N Westshore Blvd., Tampa). No one is answering the phone today.

In a dense playing field at this "fast casual" price point (T.G.I. Friday's, Ruby Tuesdays, Applebee's Neighborhood Grill & Bar, Chili's Grill & Bar, etc.), Bennigan's demise is probably just another example of what analysts have been saying for a while: The economy is driving lower income guests to fast-food restaurants, to competitors with lower prices or to eat at home more often. Competitors have responded to this trend by launching new added-value campaigns or lower-priced prix-fixe options.

Just this past week T.G.I. Fridays debuted a new "Give Me More Stripes' Members-Only Free Food Initiative," rewarding frequent diners. Romano’s Macaroni Grill restaurants have begun offering guests additional value at lunch and dinner, with full-sized entree and a personal-sized dessert every day for $9.99. Outback Steakhouse has just instituted new affordable menu options between the hours of 4 and 6 p.m. The list goes on.

The jury's out on what led to this recent bankruptcy, but there's no doubt that the big "fast casual" players are going to have be fleet of foot to respond to diners' current financial concerns.

[Getty Images]

Another dawg for Rachael Ray

I swear I don't love to pick on her. But it's just so darned easy. Alright, there was the terrorist-scarf fashion-faux-pas Dunkin' Donuts commercial recently. But then yesterday it was announced that she's launching a charity-driven line of dog foods based on recipes she has created for her pit bull, Isaboo. Called "Nutrish" (ugh), proceeds from the line go to Rachael's Rescue, which she founded to help at-risk animals. A totally noble gesture, for sure, but it just opens herself up to all kinds of dog food jokes.

Since dogs can't really say Yum-O, here's a clip of her testing the goods on their behalf... Think dog food can contain EVOO?

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July 28, 2008

No more trans fats in California

The incredible speed with which nutrition science--and then corresponding legislation--is changing can give you whiplash. I'll be interested to see how the logistics of California's trans fat ban play out, all relevant baked goods supposedly off the shelves by 2011. New York City's trans fat ban, which began July 1 of this year, has seemed to lack teeth, with citations issued being essentially warnings thus far.

No doubt, the ban will shorten the shelf life of some food products, but the payoff will be big. Trans fats lower HDL (good) cholesterol and increase LDL (bad) cholesterol; increase rigidity and clogging of arteries; cause insulin resistance; and contribute to Type 2 diabetes. The New England Journal of Medicine estimates that eliminating trans fats could prevent between 6 and 19 percent of heart attacks and related deaths each year.

And now, for something totally different, here's how to close a [trans fat-free] chip bag without a chip clip. Like origami, only more practical.

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July 22, 2008

Global food crisis comes back to calories

I've interviewed Marion Nestle for nutrition stories in the past. I was struck by the eloquence and sense of her first question-and-answer column written for the San Francisco Chronicle. Here it is:

Q: What's the most pressing nutrition issue today, and why?

A: The answer can be summed up in one word: calories.

Calories are at the root of today's most important nutritional problems. Those of us in the Western world get far too many. Much of the rest of the world doesn't get nearly enough. And for everyone, calories are suddenly getting very expensive.

Calories measure the energy value of food. They are a quick way of talking about the amount of food we eat and how much that food costs. Eat too many calories for the number you use, and on come the pounds. Food tempts us everywhere, even in places like business supply stores, bookstores and libraries. It comes in larger and larger portions. And we are expected to snack all day long.

New York City and San Francisco are leading national efforts to post calories on menu boards. When you actually see the numbers, it's a revelation. The smallest serving of ice cream is 400 calories (and that's
without candy mix-ins), a cookie is 500, hot chocolate is 700, and a pizza-for-one can have more than 2,000. Most people need 2,000 to 3,000 for an entire day.

Humanitarian crises: How ironic it is - and how tragic - that we now have a world food crisis over the high cost of calories. People in Egypt, Haiti and Indonesia are rioting because they cannot afford to buy basic foods. Governments everywhere are scrambling to protect their countries' food supplies. Expensive calories create humanitarian crises and political instability, and are a problem for people, governments and the world.

Economists say food prices are rising because demand exceeds supply. In the United States, this hardly makes sense. We have loads of supply. The foods we produce, plus imports, less exports, are enough to feed every man, woman, and child 4,000 calories a day. This is roughly twice the average need. Most other countries - all but the very poorest in Africa and Asia - also have plenty of calories, or did until nature and politics intervened.

Climate change reduces crop yields, and tsunamis, cyclones and earthquakes disrupt agriculture. Wars don't help and neither do agricultural subsidies and trade policies that undermine food production in developing countries.

In America, we pay farmers to grow corn to put calories in cars. And we waste what would amount to at least 1,000 calories a day each through such things as incomplete harvests, overly generous food service, and the increasingly frequent vegetable recalls.

Continue reading "Global food crisis comes back to calories" »

July 21, 2008

Tasty bites

I'm back and feeling refreshed from a week of hiking, fishing and mountain biking in the High Sierras. I know it's been quiet on the blog front here, but I've got some tidbits to share.

First, after many construction delays, Domenica Macchia, former chef at Redwoods, has announced the opening date for her new venture MJ's Martini Jazz & Tapas (445 99 Ave. N., St. Petersburg, 727-329-6600). Opening September 3, she says her aim is to offer quality foods at "reasonable and realistic prices." Sounds good to me: fried turkey breast, rabbit sausage, kobe franks and beans, braised short ribs, salmon with lavender honey sauce and--here's a bit of a first for the Tampa bay area--some molecular gastronomy science. Looking forward to checking out her mad scientist creations.

ChocolatesBurdick Chocolate out of New Hampshire ("first in the nation," natch) has just launched the Obama and McCain Assortments. That's a sweet way to support your candidate. They include flavors like "Kansas Corn Crunch" and "Hawaiian Pineapple" for the Democrat; "Arizona Citrus" and "Hot Pepper Tequila" for the Republican. The chocolates are offered in quarter- and half-pound assortments ($15 and $28) and every box comes with an official campaign button. I'm not saying which side of the aisle I'm rooting for, but McCain's gianduja and organic peanut butter chocolate rocked (his hot pepper tequila lacked any real pepper oomph) while Obama's Kenyan coffee ganache had fabulously intense coffee flavor.

July 15, 2008

Drink up

A couple of wine dinners coming up:

Gallagher’s Steakhouse hosts its "Ultra Premium Wine Dinner & Silent Auction" on Friday, July 18 at 6:30 p.m. Penfolds wines are featured in a five-course meal, with Penfolds’ global wine educator, Matthew Lane, on hand to answer questions and explicate the pairings. In addition, a silent auction will include several hard-to-find back vintages of Grange, RWT, Bin 60A, Block 42 and Yattarna Chardonnay. the dinner has an intimidating price tag, $300 per person, served in the restaurant's private dining area. Gallagher’s Steakhouse is located at 615 Channelside Drive, #203, in Channelside Bay Plaza, Tampa. Call Lisa at (813) 229-8637 for reservations.

For something a little less spendy, Toasted Pheasant (14445 N Dale Mabry Hwy., Tampa, 813/265-6700) hosts a wine dinner Friday, July 25 at 7 p.m. The five-course meal costs $54.95 per person and includes these pairings:  a cheese plate paired with Hogue Fruit Forward Gewurztraminer, Columbia Valley; jumbo lump crab cake with lemon saffron remoulade served with Toasted Head Russian River Chardonnay; duck rillette with mixed field greens served with Toasted Head Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ; braised beef short rib simmered in a merlot stock served with Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Merlot; and chocolate mousse served with berry coulis and paired with a Ravenswood Belloni Zinfandel, Russian River.

July 14, 2008

Celebration of our favorite pork product

800pxnci_baconJust got this from my buddy Chad: "I thought you needed to know that it was Pork Week at Salon, with lots of hard-hitting bacon-focused journalism." 'Nuff said, Chad. I am there.

(Bacon porn snapped by Renee Comet for the National Cancer Institute in 1994.)

July 11, 2008

Newcomers

As I said several days ago, Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. officially opens its doors at John’s Pass Village in Madeira Beach on Friday, July 18. Like a dreamy new neighbor, on its opening day it gives 50 percent of all sales (not net proceeds, mind you) to St. Petersburg-based nonprofit R’Club, whose mission is to strengthen children, families, and communities through quality child/youth development programs that focus on Respect, Responsibility, Resourcefulness, and Responsiveness. The new two-story, 400-seat location features two patios and a lovely water view from inside the dining room. The restaurant is led by general manager Mark Talbot, a Florida native, and chef Lynn Yoder, who has been the chef at the New Orleans location since 2005.

Another newcomer, kind of, opens this week. Grill 131, a new restaurant in Seminole by Bob Spoto opens July 14 at the corner of 131st Street and Park Blvd. Funny thing, Spoto was in this location 20 years ago! And Crabby Bill's is set to open in Indian Rocks Beach sometime this week (meanwhile, neighboring tiny sushi spot, Tao, seems to have quietly closed). Stay tuned.

When you know a trend is running its course

Dessert_sweetshots_tiltleftIn gastronomic meccas around the country, teeny-tiny desserts have found their way into the sweet spot, often served in diminutive ramekins or even shot glasses. And, really, what's not to like? You get to try lots of gooey delights for less money than ordering all of them a la carte, and even the calorie count is a little more reasonable.

Now Chili's is serving "sweet shots." You can order one or all of these: Layers of Warm Cinnamon Roll, Double Chocolate Fudge Brownie, Strawberry Wave Cheesecake, Dutch Apple Caramel Cheesecake for $1.99 each or $5 for 4.

July 09, 2008

Anthony Bourdain is a bad boy. But we knew that.

BourdainThe new season of No Reservations started the other night, and the star is already in trouble. Seems last season he stole a page from Don Imus's playbook and called Jamaican women "bitches."

Text goes like this (describing a dance-hall concert):

"Like reggaetón, its mutant cousin, dance-hall is the hard-core beat behind lyrics concerning, for the most part, acquiring possessions, getting respect on the street, beating down perceived enemies, and enjoying the physical charms of varied, if not multitudinous, bitches.”

Yeesh, I like my chefs naughty and trash-talking, but that seems a little crass. Let's see what the fallout is...

July 08, 2008

Sliders!

Alright, I admit it, there were some wiener omissions in my story on Thursday. Having written about one of them, Chi-Town Dogs (4115 66th St. N, St. Petersburg, 727/343-9003) fairly recently, I decided not to include them. Still, an omission. To make amends, I'd like to alert the local dining public that Chi-Town has begun serving White Castle/Krystal-style sliders, those little babies with the onions on top and the pillowy rolls. Two is about right for a meal, each one running $2.35.

There, I'll sleep better tonight.

More free stuff

Gas and food prices getting you down? Here are reasons to burn some gas in pursuit of free food and drink.

7-Eleven stores have a lot going on. It celebrates its 81st birthday July 11 (Friday) with free Slurpees in 7.11-oz retro-styled cups. (Also, this month launches 7-Eleven's energy drink Slurpee--does that sound like a good idea to you?--the Black Ice Slurpee, served in a 32-oz. 3-D collectible monster cups with wacky big aluminum straws big enough to get a monster brainfreeze. And celebrating National Hot Dog Month, stores offer a a quarter-pound Big Bite hot dog and Big Gulp drink for just $1.99.

Celebrating Bastille Day, West Palm Wines hosts a free tasting on Saturday, July 12 from 4 to 5:30 p.m. Think great French wines at peasant prices. French wines by the bottle are available for 20 percent off (excluding Champagne and Old and Rare Room wines). West Palm Wines is located at 2009 N. 22nd St., Tampa; (813) 241-8587.

Alright, it's not free, but it's cheap: Tastes of La Maison's Wine Bar is having a summer sale. Purchase a $50 gift certificate for $37.50 with cash or check and save 25% off your dining and drinking costs at La Maison Gourmet until October 31, 2008. Also, Tuesday nights feature a half priced wine sale night with bottles of wine costing $28 or less; Wednesday nights ladies drink free house wines and draft beers with the purchase of $10 in food. Tastes of La Maison is located at 471 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 736-3070.

July 07, 2008

Grape expectations

Free wine tasting!! Avenue Cellars at 9662 Linebaugh Ave. in Westchase commemorates its grand opening on Saturday with a free wine tasting between 1 and 11 p.m. and live music at 7:30 p.m.

Avenue Cellars introduces an new approach to selling and serving wine from 10 distinctive regions, each marked with an easy-to-comprehend icon (equally convenient for cork dorks and wine novices). Sit and order a wine flight, purchase by the bottle or just stop in for a little relaxation with free Wi-Fi connection. Avenue Cellars has wine certified staff and intends to provide monthly and weekly events including: D’Vine Happy Hour, Wine Journey, Open Cellar Tasting, Music in the Vineyard, Avenue Art House and Wine Education.

July 03, 2008

Ale to the chief--that's a good one

The July/August issue of DRAFT magazine lists the top ten beers for patriotic drinkers:

10. Ale to the Chief by Avery Brewing Company: It was Teddy Roosevelt who envisioned the “speak softly and carry a big stick” diplomacy and Avery takes that to heart with his big, bold double IPA. Hoping to be a hit at the Democratic National Convention in August, this “presidential” pale ale is a play off of the “imperial” classification that originated in England. After a few sips of this hopped monster, speaking softly should prove difficult.

9. Independence Pale Ale by Independence Brewing Co.: Brewed in memory of the original American pioneers of Texas—those volunteers who sacrificed blood in an effort to break from Mexican control—this beer flaunts the battle cry of Gonzales: “Come and take it!” It’s made with Northwestern hops and barley, and the taste finishes much cleaner than any of the battles fought on Texas soil.

8. Freedom Double IPA by Elk Grove Brewery: This IPA, available only during summer months, is not only brewed in honor of our freedom, but it also presents another American ideal: giving back. For each pint purchased, 25 cents are donated to charity. And with 65 pounds of hops used to brew each batch of this massive beer, the whole experience will leave a good taste in your mouth.

7. Presidential IPA by Diamond Bear Brewing Co.: The name says it all, and so does the slogan: “A Beer Fit for a Head of State.” Perfect for any July fourth parade, the bottle is wrapped in red and white stripes; a nice replacement for Old Glory in those flag waving moments. The hop selection, reflecting our strongest diplomatic relationship, features a strong portion of American Cascades allied with British Fuggles and Goldings.

6. U.S. Pale Ale by Capital Brewery: Based in Middleton, Wis., Capital Brewery keeps this selection simple, noting that the beer features “hops with an American accent.” With assertive Cascade hops making a charge on your palate and finishing with zesty citrus notes, this brew reflects our country’s willingness to shake things up a bit.

5. Bitter American by 21st Amendment Brewery:  Whether it’s a stalling economy, a political scandal or a broken foreign policy, there’s always one reason or another to succumb to bitterness. That said, this American session beer has enough IBUs to commiserate with you. With a low 3.6% ABV, feel free to order multiple rounds while exercising the right to wax poetic about our nation’s pros and cons.

4. General Grant ESB by Sequoia Brewing Co.: Ulysses S. grant fought in the Mexican American War, served as a general in the American Civil War became this country’s 16th president and guided southern states through the strenuous Reconstruction—it’s safe to say this man deserved a beer, if not a beer name after him. Paying homage to his British roots, this English bitter using Kent Goldings hops.
3. Samuel Adams Boston Lager by Boston Beer Co.: Samuel Adams, father of the American Revolution, fueled the fire of independence from Britain and found time to indulge in the practice of brewing. Once a household name for residents of Boston in the late 1700s, Samuel Adams has returned as a prominent fixture in the craft beer movement.

2. Liberty Ale by Anchor Brewing: Introduced to the masses in 1975 to commemorate the bicentennial of Paul Revere’s midnight ride from Boston to Lexington, this beer is an ode to American history.

1. General Washington’s Tavern Porter by Yards Brewing Co.: The First American president was a fan of Philadelphia porters; he even developed his own recipe for personal consumption. Based on that recipe, this 7% ABV porter is a trip back to the dawn of modern democracy. 

July 02, 2008

Extra cheese, or why Wisconsin is weird

Just got this release. Wow. There are "nationally recognized cheese carvers"?

In celebration of Independence Day, Sarah "The Cheese Lady" Kaufmann, a nationally recognized cheese carver and Wisconsin native, will be sculpting a 5,000-pound mammoth Wisconsin cheddar cheese at SAM's Club 7050 Watts Road, Madison, WI. Sarah will carve a patriotic-themed scene featuring popular Wisconsin icons in a “Spirit of ‘76”-style parade.  Famous Wisconsin characters like Bucky Badger, Musky (the state fish), a dairy cow, a cheesehead, a bottle of milk and more will be marching around the 15-foot circumference of the “big cheese.” One might even see a carving of the SAM’s Club store manager. 
 
The public is invited to view the initial cutting and preparation on Tuesday, July 1, and the carving on July 2, 3 and 4 from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Onlookers can also taste the cheese and purchase their own piece of the 5,000-pound mammoth cheese.
 
“This is a unique opportunity for people of all ages to see and taste a cheese of this mammoth size – 54 inches tall and 60 inches in diameter offered during this special promotion in SAM’s Fresh departments,” states Kaufmann.
 
This isn't the first time cheese was used for a patriotic reason. In 1801, Elder John Leland of Cheshire, MA, collected milk from members of his congregation to create a 1,200 to 1,600-pound, four-foot wide, 15-inch thick mammoth cheese. The cheese was presented to Thomas Jefferson on January 1, 1802 as a political statement of support for Jefferson. This later inspired President Andrew Jackson’s supporters to order a mammoth cheese in 1837. Although Kaufmann's cheese sculpture won't be nearly as partisan, it does come with some precedence.
 
A mammoth cheese is defined as any artisan, handcrafted cheese larger than 75 pounds.  The mammoth cheddar cheese Sarah “The Cheese Lady” will be carving is provided through DCI Cheese Company, a leading supplier of domestic and imported cheeses.
 
“Folks are amazed at the sizes and can’t believe the cheese is real,” Kaufmann explains about the mammoths. “They stop dead in their tracks and love to have a taste just to ensure it’s real cheese!”
 
“The Cheese Lady” has been sculpting cheese since 1981.  For the past 12 years, she has been commissioned by SAM’s Clubs across the nation to carve “big cheeses.” She currently carves in her studios in Cincinnati and San Diego, as well as at various venues nationwide. Although Cheddar is the most common, she loves using a variety of cheeses including Provolone, Asiago, White Cheddar and Gruyere. She has carved cheeses as small as two ounces – the F-18 fighter jets she sculpted to land on a six-foot-long 640-pound USS Ronald Regan aircraft carrier – and as large as a 12,500-pound cheddar mammoth inscribed with a fierce dragon. Other notable creations include a 120-pound Mickey Mouse and several personalities (Jay Leno, Matt Lauer, Katie Couric, Mario Andretti and Wisconsin's own Bret Favre).

 

Continue reading "Extra cheese, or why Wisconsin is weird" »

About This Blog

"He who distinguishes the true savor of his food can never be a glutton; he who does not cannot be otherwise."
- Henry David Thoreau.

"I eat with gusto. Damn, you bet!"
- Jonathan Richman.

Laura Reiley is the food critic for the St. Petersburg Times. She is not a glutton but she eats with gusto.

Have a restaurant suggestion? E-mail Laura Reiley: lreiley@sptimes.com

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