Jeannie Pierola and Gaspar's Grotto
Jeannie Pierola strikes again. The celebrated former Bern’s chef has kept herself busy since her departure from the fabled steak house more than a year ago. First, she swooped in to retool the menu at flailing De Santo in St. Petersburg. More recently, she worked with old buddy Eric Schiller, owner of Gaspar’s Grotto in Ybor City, to rethink the menu there.
Tampa’s beloved memorabilia-laden (and dog-friendly) pirate bar got a major makeover in the kitchen, with the “Set Sail” menu having been unveiled slowly over the past several months: littleneck clam Alfredo; smokin’ pulled pork sandwich with fancy slaw; New York strip with yucca fries, marinated tomatoes and chimichurri; Maine lobster roll with housemade potato chips—its once basic-food-and-grog menu has been given a gleam of sophistication.
At the end of December, though, she and Schiller put the finishing touches on a new Sunday brunch menu (Schiller hasn’t completely fixed on a name: maybe Captain Ehab’s Booze Cruise Brunch, or maybe a more minimalist Fun Brunch). The overarching theme is laidback, pirate-pumped, Ybor-style fun, but with high-quality food (price: $29.95). They’ve experimented with a beignet recipe, the plan to shake them in a bag with sugar and pass them around the dining room (a tribute to the way Phil Alessi did it years ago).
Each guest gets a 3-ounce carafe of vodka—as Schiller says, “That’s one hellacious drink or three smaller Bloody Marys.” There are classic Benedicts (or one served over a deviled crab cake), chocolate-stuffed French toast and, somewhat surprisingly, a traditional Japanese breakfast. Live music outside, a raw bar and other stations, and everyone gets a little time with Tanker Ray, the resident feline mascot.
Pierola’s own Next Big Thing is still a matter of much speculation. Some say it will be in Ybor City, other rumors swirl about someplace in South Tampa. But if she just keeps gussying up existing restaurant concepts, that’s OK too.
Gaspar's Grotto, 1805 E 7th Ave., Tampa, (813) 248-5900
"He who distinguishes the true savor of his food can never be a glutton; he who does not cannot be otherwise." 
The 3 oz. of vodka reminds me of how much I miss a favorite watering hole of mine in Chicago, O'Keefe's.
The have a Bloody Mary Bar where you order a jigger of Van Gogh in a 12 oz. glass and then have at it at the Bloody Mary "salad" bar. Crazy fixin's and the best deal going for $5 drink.
Posted by: Hank | January 19, 2009 at 11:09 AM
I love the idea of her bouncing around cleaning up and spiffing up stale old school menus. Being an Old NYer, I miss the great creative restaurants. Bring on to Clearwater Beach, too much grouper, not enough creativity.
Posted by: | January 19, 2009 at 01:05 PM
They should make her mayor. Maybe she could spruce up this backwards town.
Posted by: Jay | January 20, 2009 at 07:40 AM
Come over to the other side of the Bay, Jeannie! Clearwater and the Beach are DYING for something new and inventive! Breath some life back into this culinary sleepy town!!!
Posted by: Megan | January 20, 2009 at 08:23 AM
are you serious? she closed down desanto and berns was famous before her and after its a iconic landmark. why so much love for this woman?
Posted by: chef | January 21, 2009 at 10:09 AM
Chef, I have continually noticed your disparing comments toward Ms. Pierola every single time something is written about her. Apparently, you are gravely jealous and, additionally, very misinformed.
Posted by: Foodiechick | January 21, 2009 at 12:39 PM
someone has to tell the truth.....
Posted by: chef | January 21, 2009 at 02:53 PM
@Chef: you should only judge things you have at least superficial knowledge about. What do you know about those businesses and the many others Pierola was involved in? I can see "nothing" going over your lips right now. But let's not focus on people who post during work time, they most likely do not hold an important position in life anyway and thus likely led by envy. Can only hope she will reappear with her own concept in some hotspot of town very soon!
Posted by: Timothy | January 22, 2009 at 01:07 AM
And what is this "truth" you claim to be so privy to, "chef"? I can tell you this truth: you know nothing. Stick to what you do know, and that is standing at an Aprons counter at Publix preparing samples for the masses.
Posted by: Foodiechick | January 22, 2009 at 11:21 AM
the truth is she buried desantos and that is fact and i'm sorry that upsets you - gotta run, big line here at publix...
Posted by: chef | January 22, 2009 at 04:59 PM
OMG! I Went to Desanto's and all her food had foam!What is with that? How 80's is she? I am gay and she is the most un friendly lesbian I have ever met! All of you must have slept with her to praise her so!
Posted by: Kiera | January 22, 2009 at 10:14 PM
True! The foam was all over at Desanto's! Ha Ha! There was that guy on Top Chef "Marcelle" who used it in every dish! ARe they related?
Posted by: Charles | January 24, 2009 at 11:43 PM