New on Food TV

Something happened on Food Network this weekend that hasn't happened in at least four years: it debuted a show that was worth watching.

The network -- which isn't a network, by the way, it's a channel. i hate that -- has a reality show going on to find its next star. This is not the show worth watching. On it, they are constantly talking about a culinary point of view. This is season 4, I have watched every episode. No one has had one yet. Some contestants don't seem to realize that television is a medium that requires speaking to convey thought. One contestant thought that a good product to inflict on the American public was a mix of salt and cayenne, because who could do that on their own? One contestant seemed legitimately stunned when the glass jar she was violently beating against the countertop broke, spilling juice over everything. (Read that last sentence again. Think about it. Let me assure you that it actually happened. No, I can't explain it.) The show is a collection of contestants -- I'm sure they are all very nice people -- who are either good cooks or are potential TV personalities. Some have been neither, but no one seems to be both.

Anyway, the show I saw that really seemed to be worth watching was called Secrets of a Restaurant Chef. I hope everyone starts watching it, because it is the first show in forever that seems to address people who know how to cook, but want to do it better. Or stretch their muscles a little. I really enjoyed the host, Anne Burrell, who seems to have a blast making a TV show.

On Sunday's debut, she made bolognese, which is one of my favorite things of all time. it's a meaty pasta sauce. For the recipe, click here. Be forewarned, while it's not really complicated, it does take a long time. You have a weekend project now.

Burrell is a spiky-haired force-of-nature type who seems to really know what she's doing. She's clearly an accomplished chef. She has a restaurant in NYC and has Mario Batali joints on her resume. She's a little rough as a TV host, and I hope she stays that way. If they wanted to polish her delivery, they might tell her to tone down the exaggerated body english. They might tell her to control the crazy Peewee Herman voice inflections. They might tell her to stop making up words (excessivo? crudness? olive earl?). They would be wrong. She was a riot and I hope that she doesn't get remotely sanitized. (Although, when discussing food, probably best to not talk about "browning the crap out of vegetables." But maybe I'm wrong.) She'll get better at it as she does it, assuming she gets the opportunity, but I hope she does it on her terms. Because it was the first time I can remember smiling at a new instructional show on the channel in I don't even know how long.

One thing that gave me pause: I have never seen anyone add salt to a dish by the handful. I've heard of a "pinch" before. But handful? Wow. I suspect it was for effect. Point taken. Use plenty of salt. But not a handful.

I was hooked on the channel in the days when the lineup was Emeril, Flay, Batali, the Tamales. I guess that kind of lineup didn't work for everyone. But did it really work for no one? I understand why the current lineup of debutantes and doyennes who are more inclined to brand than braise is popular. But they do nothing for me. It was one thing when they had Rachel Ray run over to the fridge and overload both arms with all her ingredients so she only had to make one trip. Now they have an army of cooks, all with the same THIS-IS-EASY! YOU-CAN-DO-IT! format. I want to watch shows that make me want to do something I haven't done, or at least, in a way I've never done it.

So, point your DVR to the Food Network on Sunday morning at 9:30, and let me know what you think.

Comments

[Chiffonade]

Burrell's enthusiasm is contagious. I scheduled a season pass for this show on my TIVO because her lessons are worthwhile learning - something that has become all too scarce on TVFN. This show might be a turning of the tide on a station that held high hopes for foodies and serious cooks all over but has since its inception, spun into a tailspin of "instant food" and "fluff Food TV." Anxiously awaiting this week's ep of Leg of Lamb!! Go, Anne!!

[jim w.]

Thanks for backing me up on this, chiffonade. I am sometimes afraid I'm all alone on this count.

[Stacie]

I thought she was interesting - I had to kind of train myself to listen to her...she was very different from my other favs. I love Ina Garten and a few of the evening shows. As you stated, I also couldn't believe the salt by the handful - it is like stroke on a plate. For the most part, I enjoyed learning how to make bolognese and look forward to her future lessons.

[Shirley J. Buttacavoli]

Jim, like you, I prefer the days when the Food Network WAS a network. I miss Sara Moulton and Gale Gand. I don't even think they air "Sweet Dreams" any more.

I love to bake "sweets" and learned a few tips from Gale. I have a plum cobbler recipe she did that is to die for!

And Sara taught me a thing or two as well.

Just like NASCAR, corporate America has stepped in and taken over something else I enjoyed. (got that - enjoyED)

I liked Paula Deen and Rachel when they first started, but their "branding" is a little too much for me.

However, I will check the listings for Ms. Burrell's show. Thanks for the tip! As a matter of fact, maybe it's time to switch that remote from Speed TV to Food TV!

Happy baking!

[Pat Flowers]

I do not like the new web sight of foodtv. The receipes are harder to find. Why on earth did they change it.
The sight is even slowers to searh thru

[Leigh]

I do not like the new formate. It is awful, the receipes are hard to find, I keep losing the connection when I search. Why fix something that wasn't broken. I am going to stop visiting the site.

[Teresa]

I do not like the new format of the Foodtv website. I can't find what I am looking for and I too keep losing connection. Needless to say I do not look at your website like I used to in the past. Why did you change it?
Different isn't always better!

[Monica]

No one has what yet? Guy Fieri has a couple of shows and he was a winner.

[ron brace]

re new site

it is terrible, i also keep losing connection

[Jane Dough]

I agree that the new FOODTV website is a nightmare to use! It is very user UNfriendly

[Jaen]

I also do not like the new website. I can't even find something I was looking at just last night. It's also very slow

[phyllis didia]

i too do not like the new web page for foodtv....it is awful...return to the old one...if something is not broken do not fix it

[Barbara Johnson]

I do not like the new food tv web page. It's not user friendly and I keep losing connections. I REALLY don't like the pop-up videos. I'd like to have the option to view them, not to have them come up automatically. Please go back to the old site.

[EILEEN]

I STARTED WATCHING FOOD TV WHEN YOU NEEDED RETURN ENVELOPES WITH POSTAGE. STILL WATCHING, MISS THE ENVELOPES

[Phyllis leavitt]

I do not like the new food tv format. I cannot find what I am looking for and AOL keeps losing the connection. Please, please, go back to the old format.

[Sharon Collins]

I hate the new format. I used to check it every day. Now I never do. The other one was so simple. I loved it. Please go back to the original one.