A Christmas wonderland

I promised to tell you more stories about our trip to Germany and Austria, but the bulk of the adventure you can read here. Make sure you click on the audio slide show to see some gorgeous photos take by Wolverine Sr., who happens to be a photographer here at the St. Petersburg Times. They are gorgeous. He recorded the glockenspiel and a men's choral group in Munich, but the sweetest music was a children's group in Nuremburg.

I really loved the Christmas market in Nuremberg, one of the biggest in Europe. Nowhere else will you find the pint-sized grilled wursts — about as big as your ring finger — called "drei im weggla," three on a bun. At most other places that sold sausages, you never got them IN a bun, just NEAR a bun.

I am a total sucker for pottery and clay pieces. I bought one of these little tiles of the church on the main plaza in Nuremberg. (Did I mention I bought another cuckoo clock? Our house is starting to sound like something from and Edgar Allen Poe poem.) In Nuremberg, we found this nice restaurant and coffeehouse next the market and were able to sit there for more than an hour nursing hot chocolate and coffee. Because the waiters don't rely totally on tips, they don't rush you.

So what does this have to do with dinner tonight? Nothing really but I'm dreaming of that white Christmas in Salzburg and sort of procrastinating on all the other things left to do. Score one for me: I finished my Christmas cards. Christmas cookies? Haven't started yet and Wolverine Jr. is starting to give me the stink eye. This weekend. I promise.

It's not German at all but this Broken Florentine Lasagna Bake from Rachael Ray's Big Orange Book looks like the perfect Friday night meal. Especially before you head out to the mall.

Broken Florentine Lasagna Bake

4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons flour
3 cups milk
Salt and pepper
Nutmeg, to taste
1 1/2 cups grated Parmigiano Reggiano, divided
2 tablespoons EVOO -- Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 garlic clove, cracked
1 bunch green chard, stems removed and leaves roughly chopped
2 pounds spinach, stems removed and leaves roughly chopped
1 box no-boil lasagna noodles

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Place a medium pot over medium heat and melt the butter. Sprinkle the flour over the melted butter and cook for about a minute. Slowly whisk the milk into the butter-flour mixture and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Let it thicken a couple of minutes then stir in about a cup of the Parmigiano. Set the sauce aside.

Place a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat with 2 turns of the pan of EVOO, about 2 tablespoons. Toss in the cracked clove of garlic and cook for a minute or two to release its aroma and flavor. Add in the chard and wilt it down, about 2 minutes, then wilt in the spinach a few handfuls at a time. Season the greens with salt and pepper.

Break the pasta sheets into large pieces. Toss them into the skillet and give them a good stir to incorporate them with the greens. Pour the sauce into the skillet, stirring again to evenly incorporate everything. Smooth the top down and sprinkle the remaining 1/2 cup of Parmigiano Reggiano over the top of the lasagna.

Cover the skillet with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil from the pan and let it finish uncovered for about 15 more minutes to brown the cheese.

Serves 4.

Source: Rachael Ray's "Big Orange Book."

Photos Scott Keeler, St. Petersburg Times

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