Get your carbs from gnocchi

When I took a weeklong recreational cooking class in an old convent in Provence in 2004, a woman who spoke only French taught us -- who spoke mostly English -- how to make gnocchi. We gathered around the small wooden table you see here and watched as she ripped off like 50 of the little potato dumplings in about 2 minutes. She used a fork to roll and flip and score them. It was amazing, but so intimidating I've never tried to make them at home.

Thank goodness for frozen gnocchi! Look for them at your grocery store or an Italian specialty shop. I like doughy gnocchi but don't have them too often because they are so heavy. Every now and then, though, they take the place of a big bear hug. Very comforting.

This recipe comes from Fine Cooking magazine's new compilation of recipes. Lots of gorgeous color photos to inspire you to head to the kitchen. If we ever get a cold snap this winter, this is the recipe to trot out.

Pan-Fried Gnocchi With Bacon, Onions, & Peas
Kosher salt
1 pound frozen gnocchi
3 ounces thick-cut bacon (about 3 slices), cut into 1/2-inch-wide pieces
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided use
2 medium-small yellow onions, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
1/2 cup frozen peas
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; more for serving

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook the gnocchi according to package directions. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, and drain.

Meanwhile, in a large (preferably 12-inch) nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until crispy on both sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels and set aside. Pour off any fat from the skillet.

In the same skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook until they begin to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are limp and golden brown, 10 minutes more. Stir in the peas and thyme, season with salt and pepper to taste, and transfer to a small bowl.

Wipe the skillet clean with a paper towel, and heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add the gnocchi and cook, tossing occasionally, until they’re lightly brown, about 5 minutes. Gently stir in the onion mixture, bacon, and Parmigiano, along with enough of the reserved cooking water to moisten and coat the gnocchi, about 4  tablespoons. Serve immediately, sprinkled with additional Parmigiano.

Serves 3.

Source: Fine Cooking, recipe and photo

Kitchen photo by Janet K. Keeler