They call me the Brass Belly. Ol’ Ironguts. The Food Lion.
Okay, fine, they don’t really call me those things. But they should. For on Day One of the Florida State Fair, I sat out to taste-test as many of this year’s new flash-fried abominations unto Atkins as I could lay my greasy mitts on.
And I did it all in the first four hours.
Here is my report.
Walking tacos
In the Pantheon of Lazy Ideas, there should be a plaque on the wall honoring “walking tacos” — fun-size bags of Fritos or Doritos with beef and taco fixings dumped inside. These things are so simple, so unabashedly silly-looking, that you wonder how anyone thought customers might pay good money for it.
But my walking taco ($3) was amazingly portable, and very tasty. The texture reminded me of cereal. Meat cereal.
These things are so simple, you could probably make them at home with any ingredients you choose. In fact, this “walking” concept opens up a whole world of culinary opportunities. How about a scoop of ice cream plopped in a bag of Oreo crumbles? Or a blob of peanut butter in a bag of chocolate chips? Or a can of soup dumped into a bag of oyster crackers? Stop me if I’m going too fast for you here.
Grade: A-minus
Deep-fried bratwurst
Picture a corn dog strutting around the gym like he just worked his pecs, and you’ve got a good sense of what the deep-fried bratwurst ($3) is all about. Mine took a few minutes to make, presumably because the demand for deep-fried sausage had not, at 11 a.m., hit its peak. It tasted like a corn dog — maybe a little spicier, with a hint of cheese.
“Slightly phallic,” added my companion, photographer Carrie Pratt. Indeed.
Grade: B
Pizza on a stick
The latest addition to the on-a-stick family of fair foods is the pizza on a stick — a slice of pizza wrapped around what looks like a paint stirrer. These things are enormous, the size of calzones, which might explain why mine one cost an outrageous $8. Mine was bready and messy, and it tasted like DiGiorno. Plus, the marquee sign featured varieties like veggie and beef, but my only options were cheese and pepperoni. Look for this one near the rides, not the midway. If you dare.
Grade: C
Fried fruit on a stick
This is a line of fresh fruit, impaled on a stick and deep-fried in batter. Just as Mother Nature intended. My skewer had one grape, one cherry, one strawberry, one pineapple chunk and one apple slice. I thought they were pretty good — hot, like pie filling, and a good way to get your daily dose of Vitamin C. (Just play along.) The taste of the batter overwhelmed the taste of the fruit. And at $4 apiece, you don’t get much for your money.
Grade: B
Deep-fried cookie dough
When something is billed as being from “the same people that brought fair-goers deep-fried Pepsi,” you
know it’s worth a taste. Sadly, these nuggetlike wads of chocolate-chip Pillsbury goo don’t quite live up to expectations.
Cookie dough tastes terrific when it’s cold or when it’s fully cooked. But these batter-dipped gobs just tasted like not-quite-done cookies. They were gooey and messy, and without the chocolate chips, there wouldn’t be much of a taste to them at all. At $4 for four dough-drops, it’s tough to call this is an improvement on the deep-fried Snickers bar.
Grade: B-minus
Cedar Key steamed clams
Because, you know, a hot carnival midway is definitely where you want to get your fresh shellfish. Dave and Cris Feigin brought their shellfish from Levy County to add a little Florida flair to the festivities. For my $6, I got a heavy Styrofoam carton full of clams still in their shells. They tasted fine, but in the portability department, it’s definitely a couple of notches below the walking taco. You’d better sit down and free up both hands if you want to get the most clam for your buck.
I ate mine sitting on a 25-cent massage chair. It was definitely one of the weirdest places I’ve ever eaten steamed clams.
Grade: B
Authentic Hispanic cuisine
Time constraints, modesty and the limits of the human digestive system prevented me from trying all the authentic Mexican, Colombian and Puerto Rican dishes on display at the fair’s La Plaza Hispanic Village. But I did pick up a horchata ($2), an iced, sweetened glass of cinnamon rice milk. I thought it was good, if sugary. It would have better in a blender. Or maybe with vodka.
Grade: B-plus
Deep-fried fudge
There were rumors floating around the fair that someone was selling deep-fried fudge. But none of the fair employees or deep-fry divas I spoke with knew anything about it, either. So if you happen to see it out there this weekend, let me know how it is.
I’m going back on Saturday. Hopefully, my appetite will return by then.
***UPDATE!!!***
If you want to hear what a man sounds like the morning after eating a wheelbarrowful of deep-fried fair food, I recorded a voiceover for a slideshow (containing even more pictures!) put together by the good folks at Tampabay.com. Click here to check it out. (I like the Benny Hill-esque background music. Makes me sound smart!)
(Walking taco, fruit on a stick, bratwurst and author photos by Carrie Pratt)
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